“Have you ever been to New Orleans Café in Thamel?”

“Yes, that’s where we ate last year when my arm was in a cast.”

“I like that place. What about Helena?”

“No, I’ve never eaten there. Have you been to the Garden of Dreams?”

“No, I’ve been coming here for 12 years and I’ve never been to that park.”

“We’ve got to go, you’ll love it.” Continue reading Travels with Lili-Didi →

Lillian hails a taxi on the street. Before getting in she leans into the open front window. She tells the driver where we want to go and asks if he’ll take us, because drivers are entitled to refuse the fare. Then she asks how much, because passengers are entitled to refuse the cost, or negotiate a better one. Continue reading Taxi!!! →

Bad monkey stole a strip of bags of chips from a sidewalk shop. The chips he stole, 10 bags in all worth 20 Nepalese Rupees each, is a big loss to the merchant but a treasure for the thief. I didn’t see the crime, but I saw the culprit. Continue reading Bad monkey →

If you come to Kathmandu, you will no doubt visit Thamel. It’s a warren of alleys lined with hotels, restaurants, bars and shops of all kinds. It’s the main commercial destination for tourists and trekkers. Continue reading Shopping in Thamel →

As many of you know, when I was in Kathmandu last year, I broke my right arm so badly it required two surgeries, one here and one back home.

I’ve stayed in touch with Dr. Shriraj Shrestha, the surgeon who performed the first operation. He told me that if I ever returned to Kathmandu, I should let him know. I did and as a result, we were able to meet for diner. Continue reading Supper with my surgeon →

Arriving in Kathmandu is always entertaining. The airport’s arrivals hall is dimly lit; the décor is dark wood paneling and deep red bricks over slate flooring. Charcoal-coloured counters worn from long use line one side of the room. On these counters, arriving travelers must fill out their Immigration declaration. The most interesting question on the form, your gender: male, female or other. Continue reading Back in Kathmandu →

… I open the door, of course – this time to returning to Kathmandu, only one year after my last visit – the visit of the broken arm. No way could I turn down an opportunity to visit Kathmandu with Lillian, my oldest friend (in friend-years). I’ve decided to think of this as our 50-years-of-friendship trip.

Lillian and I were best friends in high school, in Quebec City. Continue reading When opportunity knocks … →